Unlike costume designers on other series, Nieddu doesn’t restrict each character to certain clothing colors with a wardrobe palette. Instead, he approaches the entertainment industry-set series like a stylist might—dressing his “clients” to face off on the red carpet with other superstars. “In my head, Cookie Lyon and Kim Kardashian both go the Grammys. So I’m not inspired by anyone’s fashion—although I did buy Cookie a pair of Pierre Hardy shoes that I saw Rihanna wearing—as much as I act as though I’m competing with Kim or Rihanna’s stylist. If Hakeem was headed to the V.M.A.s, I would be competing with Justin Bieber’s stylist, probably at the same showroom.”
For scenes in which Cookie acts more maternal, Nieddu adjusts her wardrobe accordingly. “I try to put her in something that’s a little bit more like Cookie’s version of what a mom would dress like. We have this one Derek Lam outfit that I put her in in the second episode [of the new season] that Taraji called her Carol Brady outfit. It is a maroon-and-salmon houndstooth-y plaid sleeveless vest top with an over-size white collar and matching flared pants.”
Like Sex and the City’s Carrie Bradshaw before her, Cookie dresses distinctly for every possible occasion. The character’s liberal attitude toward fashion allows for a particularly whimsical costume design process for both Nieddu and Henson.
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